Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads Read online

  Estimating Rising Times and Choosing a Rising Method—The yeast are living organisms, so their growth rate depends greatly on the temperature of the dough and the room. As a result, the rising time ranges given in recipes must be considered rough guidelines only. In fact, one portion of a dough set out in a 75°F kitchen will likely rise in half the time it takes another portion of it placed in a 65°F spot. If your room is warmer than normal, simply anticipate that the yeast will grow rapidly and check the dough sooner than is indicated; if the environment is colder, expect that they will grow slowly and the dough will rise more slowly than is indicated. If you happen to live at high altitude, take that into consideration too; the lower atmospheric pressure allows bread to rise 25 to 50 percent faster than normally.

  Since the first rise really needs to be cool and unhurried for optimum bread flavor and texture, in warm weather try to find the coolest spot in the house, for example, a table near an air-conditioning vent or unit, or in a shaded, ground floor area. It's fine to speed up or slow down the second rise to suit your schedule by selecting either an "accelerated" rise that provides an extra-warm environment or an "extended" refrigerator rise that provides a very chilly one.

  For an accelerated rise (which can reduce second rise time by a third to a half), bring a 1-cup glass measure of tap water to a boil in a microwave oven. Let the cup stand for a minute or two to avoid any chance of being burned by an eruption of steam, then set it in one corner of the microwave. Set the dough (in its baking pan and covered) inside on the other side of the microwave, close the door, and let the yeast thrive in the comfy, draft-free environment. This rising method is particularly handy in a cold house, when a recipe indicates the dough is normally very slow-rising, or when, for whatever reason, you want your bread done as soon as possible. In a few recipes in which the dough rises particularly slowly, it's suggested that after an hour or so in the microwave, the dough should be temporarily removed and the water brought to a boil again to provide a second burst of warmth for the yeast.

  Another convenience option, the extended (refrigerator) rise method lets you put off baking for up to 24 hours for many doughs and up to two days for a few. The cold temperature causes the yeast fermentation and dough rising to slow dramatically. To "restart" the rise, let the dough stand on the counter until it returns to room temperature (usually 1½ to 2½ hours), then proceed with a regular or accelerated rise. Note that holding a dough longer than the number of hours specified in the recipe can debilitate the yeast, resulting in a denser baked good.

  All recipes suggest how high doughs should rise in their pans before baking. Follow this instruction carefully, as some doughs spring up and do much of their rising after they're in the oven, and others rise very little during baking. If you aren't sure whether a dough is raised enough, test it by pressing a finger into the surface: If the indention stays instead of gradually filling up again, the dough is sufficiently raised and ready for baking. When a loaf inadvertently rises more than it should, it's best to stir it down, return it to the pan, and let it rise again, as over-raised doughs have a tendency to sink or collapse during baking.

  Selecting the Right Baking Pan or Dutch Oven—To keep things simple, this book calls for two basic loaf pan sizes: a 9 x 5-inch pan or an 8½ x 4½-inch pan. But in fact, pans with similar dimensions, say 8¾ x 5¼ inches or 8¼ x 4¾ inches, will work just as well. The critical factor is how much each pan holds, so the finished bread fills the pan attractively but doesn't hang over the sides. The larger pan should have a volume of about 8 cups (2 quarts), and the smaller one should hold about 6 cups (1½ quarts). To determine the volume, simply add enough water to fill the pan to the rim, then measure out the amount of water used. Occasionally, flat 9 x 13-inch baking pans or 10 x 15-inch rimmed baking sheets are also called for. Here again, pans with similar dimensions will work fine.

  Bundt-style and similar decorative pans, plain pans with a center tube, and soufflé dishes used for some of these breads come in a confusing assortment of metric and customary measurement sizes, so simply choose a pan with the volume specified by the recipe and with the shape you'd like for the finished loaf. Both for decorative metal pans and plain loaf pans, a sturdy construction and medium-colored finish will yield the best results. Flimsy pans don't hold or distribute the heat evenly and can result in burning on the bottom or sides. Very dark or black pan finishes can cause over-browning and shiny, aluminum foil—colored surfaces can lead to under-browning. Most nonstick and regular metal finishes (either is fine) are in the medium gray to brown range, which is ideal. Ovenproof glass and ceramic bake-ware are other acceptable options, though be aware that they sometimes shorten baking times or require a slightly lower oven temperature than metal pans.

  For the breads baked in a covered Dutch oven, casserole, or very large ovenproof saucepan or pot, the volume of the container must be at least large enough to allow the loaf to fully expand during baking. The pot should also be straight-sided or flared at the top; as I discovered, if it narrows at the top, the loaf can't be removed in one piece! For most of the large, rustic pot boules in this book, a heavy, 3½- to 4-quart flat-bottomed pot is the optimum size. A 3-quart pot can be used if it has a domed rather than flat lid, as this allows space for the dough to rise slightly above the pot rim during baking.

  A container holding more than 4 quarts will do if that's what you have, but the dough will spread out in the space, producing a flat-looking loaf. (It will still taste fine, of course!) While pricey imported enamel-coated Dutch ovens are a good choice for the pot breads, plain, seasoned cast iron or other nonreactive metal or enameled pots, such as those sold by American manufacturers (or handed down by Grandma!), are equally serviceable.

  Adjusting Oven Racks and Preheating the Oven—Every recipe indicates not only the thermostat setting, but where to place the loaf in the oven. In the majority of ovens, the rack position just below the one in the center (but not the lowest one) is the best for baking the breads in the book; the bottom and interior will bake through and the top won't become overdone. For an oven with an unusual rack configuration, just try to place loaves so their bottoms are about 4 inches from the bottom heating element. Of course, both baking and browning vary from oven to oven, so if you find that breads are burning on the bottom, just place them a little further up from the heat source the next time you bake. Any time the tops of loaves are over-browning, simply cover them with a sheet of aluminum foil.

  Many breads benefit from a strong initial blast of heat, so be sure to preheat the oven as directed. Each time the oven door opens, the temperature drops 25° to 50°F, which is why directions sometimes call for selecting one temperature, then immediately lowering it once the loaf is in the oven.

  Testing for Doneness—Perhaps the trickiest part of making Kneadlessly Simple breads is telling when they are completely done. Due to the ample water required for the "micro-kneading," doughs are moister than in conventional recipes and routinely take longer to bake through. When in doubt, always err on the side of over-baking. These doughs are moist enough that they won't dry out from a few extra minutes in the oven, and the extra time will help eliminate any chance of sogginess in the middle. Plus, deeper browning of the crust also deepens flavor.

  Just rapping a loaf on top or observing crust color is never sufficient for judging doneness: The most foolproof way is use an instant-read, or probe, thermometer and bake to the degree specified in the recipe. To test, insert the probe deep into the thickest part of the loaf, but for an accurate reading be careful not to touch the pan. Or, if you don't wish to invest in a thermometer, insert a skewer, cake tester, or thin knife deep into the loaf center, then withdraw it and check the crumbs on the tip. If the particles look wet or gooey, continue baking until they look dry and slightly crumbly. Then, always bake for an extra 5 to 10 minutes to be sure the center is fully done. (If the outside begins to over-brown, cover it with foil.)

  Storing Breads—Due to their moistness Kneadlessly Simple loaves ke
ep better than most homemade breads, but still gradually lose their freshness and appeal in a few days. Always start by putting freshly baked breads on a rack and cooling them thoroughly before packing for storage. Otherwise, moisture that condenses can be trapped and lead to deterioration and molding.

  The particular storage instructions provided in each recipe depend on whether the bread needs to stay crisp or soft. Soft breads are packed airtight in a plastic bag or container, or in foil, to prevent them from drying out. To retain their crispness, crusty breads need some air circulation, so they should be placed in a paper or cloth bag, or wrapped a clean kitchen towel. Once packed as specified, loaves will keep in a cool, dry spot (not in the refrigerator) for up to three days.

  While it might seem like a good idea to refrigerate breads, this actually speeds staling by causing rapid retrogradation, a process that crystallizes the starch molecules. To keep a bread longer than three days, freeze it in a heavy, airtight plastic freezer bag for up to two months. Some retrogradation will slowly occur, but it can be mostly reversed by wrapping the thawed bread loosely in foil and reheating it at 400°F for 15 to 20 minutes. Refresh individual slices or rolls by wrapping them in a tea towel and microwaving them on 50 percent power for around 15 to 20 seconds; use immediately.

  Ingredients

  Since the emphasis in Kneadlessly Simple is on keeping things simple, you don't need a lot of ingredients or to go to much expense to get started baking bread. Here's a rundown of the basics:

  Wheat Flour Products—Because it has greater gluten-developing potential than any other grain, wheat flour is the foundation flour in yeast baking. Much like a balloon, the stretchy protein formed during the initial stirring and subsequent "micro-kneading" traps the carbon dioxide gas released during yeast fermentation and gradually expands, in the process leavening the bread. Which is why all but the small sample of gluten-free breads in the book include at least some wheat flour and many loaves are made entirely of it.

  Three wheat flours, widely available in supermarkets, are called for in the book: all-purpose unbleached white flour, white unbleached bread flour, and whole wheat flour. Both the all-purpose white flour and bread flour are produced from the starchy part (the endosperm) of the wheat kernel. These flours are much lighter in color, milder, and finer-textured than whole wheat flour because the coarse, fiber-rich "shell" of the kernel (the bran) and the oily, nutrient-rich heart (the germ) are omitted. The two differ primarily in their amount of gluten—all-purpose white flour usually has between 7.5 and 9.5 percent gluten and white bread flour has between 11.5 and 13 percent. The extra gluten in the bread flour gives it more gas-trapping power and ultimately results in airier loaves, so keep this in mind in recipes that give you a choice between all-purpose or bread flour.

  Although some brands of all-purpose white flour and bread flour are bleached, seek out and use unbleached flours whenever possible. Unbleached flour retains carotenoid components that hold the natural grain flavor. Bleaching agents not only introduce unnecessary chemicals and may leave a faint aftertaste, but they also remove certain flavor components and the creamy color that help give bread its appeal. It's also worth sticking with top-quality brands of flour to ensure consistency from batch to batch, freshness, and grain carefully grown, harvested, stored, and milled using the best practices. Considering that flour is the most fundamental ingredient in bread, this is not the place to skimp or settle for second-rate.

  As its name suggests, whole wheat flour is made from the whole kernel. The bran and germ provide beneficial fiber and nutrients, but also lend a slightly bitter, "wheaty" flavor and brown color, and, due to their weight, produce a more compact loaf. If you want to increase whole-grain consumption but find these characteristics distracting or unpleasant, consider trying white whole wheat flour, a whole wheat flour made from a relatively new strain of wheat that has a milder taste and lighter color (but the same nutritional benefits). The King Arthur brand is the most widely available.

  Several recipes in the book not only call for whole wheat flour but also cracked wheat (broken-up wheat kernels, also called "berries") and/or additions of wheat bran and wheat germ. Because the highly perishable oily germ particles remain in whole wheat flour, cracked wheat, and germ, store these in the refrigerator, or discard after three months. White wheat flours can be kept airtight in a cool, dry spot for up to a year.

  Other Flours and Grain Products—A variety of other flours and grain products, including cornmeal, corn grits (coarsely ground dried corn), and cornstarch; rolled oats; rye flour; and white and brown rice flours and cooked rice grains, contribute their distinct flavor, texture, color, and unique set of nutrients to certain Kneadlessly Simple breads. If you are counting on these ingredients to boost nutrition, be sure to check labels before you buy. Sometimes, the germ is removed from cornmeal or grits to increase the shelf life, so look for the words "whole-grain" or "un-degerminated" on the packaging. Whole-grain cornmeal and grits, as well as all the other whole-grain products—rolled oats, brown rice, and rye flour—stale rapidly, so store them airtight in the refrigerator. Most of these items are stocked in supermarkets, sometimes in a "whole grains" section, sometimes with the baking supplies or cereals.

  Bread Yeast—Yeast is called for in modest quantities in Kneadlessly Simple but, like wheat flour, it's an essential ingredient. The yeast amounts needed are smaller than in old-fashioned recipes because the long, cool first rise allows ample time for the yeast organisms to become active and do their work. Adding extra yeast is not only unnecessary—it can cause overly rapid fermentation of the dough, which in turn can produce unpleasantly strong- or sour-tasting bread. Since the quantities used are small, the usual ¼-ounce commercial yeast packets contain enough for several batches of bread. Measure out the amount called for, then, to keep the remainder fresh, close the packet and place it in an airtight plastic baggie or small jar. Note the date when the packet was opened and refrigerate the container; use the yeast within 3 months. If you bake bread often, the 4-ounce jars of yeast sold in some markets will be more convenient and economical. These can be kept (refrigerated) for 6 months after opening.

  All the recipes in this book have been tested with "highly active," fast-rising dry yeast (sometimes also labeled as instant or bread machine yeast). Ironically, though, this yeast isn't used to hasten rising. I call for this type because it's fuss-free and virtually foolproof when stored and handled properly: The particles are finer than those of regular active dry yeast, so it can be combined directly with the dry ingredients without preliminary proofing in warm water. (Skipping the proofing completely eliminates any chance of damaging the yeast due to overheating.) Regular active dry yeast works better when hydrated in warm water first, so is not as convenient or well suited to the Kneadlessly Simple cool rise approach. Old-fashioned compressed or cake yeast isn't suitable for these recipes either.

  Salt—Salt is indispensable partly because bread tastes bland and dull without it. But salt slightly inhibits yeast, preventing it from growing too fast and over-fermenting the dough. Equally important, salt tightens and strengthens gluten strands, making the dough better able to trap carbon dioxide and puff up well. Every recipe calls for table salt, as it is economical and, when used in dough, tastes virtually indistinguishable from sea salt or other more expensive options. Just in case you prefer to use a coarse crystal salt, be aware that table salt is more compact, so 1 teaspoon roughly equals 1½ to 2 teaspoons of the coarse crystals. A few recipes that use salt as a garnish call for sea salt or other coarse salt to add visual and textural interest and flavor; here, regular table salt won't deliver satisfactory results.

  Water—The role of water is vital in yeast breads: The yeast can't grow and the gliadin and glutenin molecules in flour can't join together to form gluten without it. Water, in the form of steam, also promotes crust crisping and browning by encouraging enzyme activity that breaks down surface starches into sugar-like compounds during the first 12 to 15 minutes in the ove
n. Steam also initially keeps the crust soft enough to allow the loaf to expand early in the baking period. (This is why it's important to follow instructions to brush a loaf with water and/or create steam in the oven just prior to beginning the baking. The steam no longer serves a useful purpose and actually hinders crisping once the first stage of baking is completed, so there's no need to replenish it later on.)

  Unless your tap water is unpleasant-tasting, it is fine for making bread, although bottled spring or distilled water can be substituted; some bakers insist upon spring water. (A side-by-side comparison of a recipe made using tap and bottled water should indicate whether the latter makes a difference with your breads.) If the off taste of your water is due to heavy chlorination, letting it stand for 24 hours will allow the chlorine to dissipate.