Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads Read online

Page 15


  1/3 recipe Herbed Cooked Tomato Pizza Sauce, or ¾ cup homemade or store-bought tomato-based pizza sauce, at room temperature

  ¼ cup coarsely sliced (pitted) black Kalamata, Niçoise, or other flavorful brined black olives, optional

  4 to 6 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

  Second Rise Place the dough portion on a 12-inch lightly oiled pizza pan or a large sheet of nonstick spray—coated baking parchment. Drizzle lightly with olive oil, then press and stretch the dough into an 11½- to 12-inch round with oiled fingertips; if it is resistant and springs back, let it rest for a few minutes before continuing. The shape doesn't have to be perfect, but be sure to push the dough outward to slightly build up and thicken the edges (which would burn if too thin). Set aside to rise, tented with nonstick spray—coated foil, for 25 to 45 minutes, depending on whether you prefer a thin, slightly dense crust, or a lighter, medium-thick one.

  Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lowest slot of the oven; preheat to 500°F. Place a rimless baking sheet (or place a rimmed sheet upside down) on the lowest rack.

  Baking Place the pizza pan with the dough (or the dough on the parchment) on the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 7 to 10 minutes, or until the dough begins to firm and puff up. Remove from the oven and spread the sauce to within 1/3 inch of the edge all around. Add the olives, if using, and the mozzarella slices evenly over the top. Return to the oven and bake until the top is bubbly and the edge is puffy and nicely browned, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and cool for 5 minutes before serving.

  Serving and Storing

  Serve hot; cut into wedges with kitchen shears or a pizza wheel. Reheat, wrapped in foil, in a 350°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes or under a microwave-safe plastic cover on medium power for a minute or so. Store airtight and refrigerated for 2 to 3 days, or frozen, airtight, for up to a week. Thaw before reheating.

  Herbed Cooked Tomato Pizza Sauce

  KS Quotient

  Easy: Simple ingredients, easily prepared. Make ahead, if desired.

  The simplest Italian pizza sauces feature fresh, full-flavored, uncooked tomatoes, but when genuine, garden-ripened tomatoes can't be had, a homemade cooked sauce made from good-quality canned tomatoes is the best alternative. It is so much better than bought, yet is easy and inexpensive and for convenience can be readied far ahead.

  This recipe makes enough for three 11- to 12-inch pizzas, so I like to divide it into three ready-to-use, freezable portions. Let frozen portions of sauce thaw overnight in the refrigerator or on the countertop for 2 to 4 hours. For the crispest crust, be sure the sauce is at room temperature before topping the dough with it.

  Yield: Enough to top three 11- to 12-inch pizzas

  1 tablespoon good-quality olive oil

  ½ teaspoon finely minced fresh garlic, or 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion

  1 can (28 ounces) fine-quality crushed tomatoes, preferably imported Italian

  2 teaspoons each dried oregano and dried thyme leaves

  ½ teaspoon good-quality balsamic vinegar, optional

  1/8 to ¼ teaspoon each salt and freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

  Combine the oil and garlic or onion in a heavy, medium saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, stirring, for 1 minute for garlic or 2 minutes for onion. Add the tomatoes, oregano, and thyme. Adjust the heat so the mixture boils gently and cook, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until the sauce is cooked down and thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the balsamic vinegar, if using, and salt and pepper. Use immediately, or refrigerate for later use.

  Storage

  Keeps in the refrigerator for up to 4 days and in the freezer for up to 2 months.

  Crispy Roasted Garlic and Parmesan Pot Bread

  KS Quotient

  Easy: Few ingredients, added all at once. No shaping required.

  Infused with fresh, roasted garlic and punched up with a little Parmesan, this is a whole different animal from the typical commercial loaf peppered with garlic salt. The flavor of the roasted herb is much more subtle, earthy, and appetizing. And the cheese gives the bread a beautiful golden hue, crisp crust, and characteristic Parmesan aroma. Be sure that both the garlic and cheese are fresh and of good quality, as they are what makes (or breaks) this bread. Even if you love garlic, curb the impulse to add extra; too much of it can inhibit the yeast growth.

  If you're a fan of pesto, you can add a couple tablespoons to the dough for a handsome, basil-flecked bread; see the variation at the end. Homemade pesto is best, but a high-quality commercial pesto will suffice.

  The bread is lovely cut into thick slices and served with a bowl of minestrone, spaghetti, or any other Mediterranean-style dish or meal. The slices are also good grilled or toasted and used for crostini. Top with an eggplant or olive spread for a memorable munchie even vegetarians can enjoy.

  Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 portions or slices

  1 large head (knob) garlic

  1 tablespoon good-quality olive oil, plus more for brushing dough

  ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus 2 tablespoons for garnish

  4 cups (20 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour or white bread flour, plus more as needed

  Scant 2 teaspoons table salt

  1¼ teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast

  2 cups plus 2 tablespoons ice water, plus more if needed

  Preliminaries Peel off and discard the papery outer skin from the garlic but do not separate or pull off the cloves. Cut across the pointed tops of the cloves to expose the flesh inside; discard the cut-off portion. Put 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small ovenproof custard cup or small bowl. Dip the cut side of the garlic into the oil to coat the cloves, then turn the head cut-side up and set in the cup. Cover the cup with foil. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the garlic is very soft and fragrant. Let cool, then squeeze or scrape out the garlic from the cloves into a medium bowl. Add ¼ cup of Parmesan and thoroughly mash with a fork until the mixture forms a paste. The paste may be made several days ahead and refrigerated; let warm up slightly and stir before using.

  First Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir the water and the garlic mixture into the bowl, scraping down the sides and mixing until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be very stiff. If necessary, stir in enough more flour to stiffen it. Brush or spray the top with olive oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. If convenient, vigorously stir the dough once partway through the rise.

  Second Rise Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center, working all the way around, avoiding deflating as much as possible. Brush or spray with olive oil. Re-cover with nonstick spray— coated plastic wrap.

  Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1½- to 2½-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from the deflated size, removing the plastic if the dough nears it.

  Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 450°F. Oil the inside of a 3- to 4-quart (or slightly larger) Dutch oven or heavy metal pot. Heat it in the oven until it just starts to smoke, then remove it (use oven mitts). Taking care not to deflate the dough, loosen it from the bowl sides with an oiled rubber spatula and gently invert it into the pot. Don't worry if it's lopsided and ragged-looking; it will even out during baking. Spritz or brush the top with water, then sprinkle over 2 ta
blespoons of Parmesan. Immediately top with the lid. Shake the pot back and forth to center and even out the dough.

  Baking Reduce the heat to 425°F. Bake on the lower rack for 45 to 50 minutes. If the loaf is golden brown, continue baking, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until the top is well browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 207° to 208°F on an instant-read thermometer.) If the loaf top looks pale after the initial 45 to 50 minutes, uncover and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes until golden brown. Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pot on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Run a table knife around the loaf to loosen it. Transfer it to the rack; cool thoroughly.

  Tip

  Most pot breads won't stick to their baking containers, but cheese breads sometimes do. That's why this recipe calls for oiling the pot before preheating it.

  Serving and Storing

  The loaf tastes good warm but will cut much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store airtight in a plastic bag or wrapped in foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400°F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

  Variation

  Crispy Roasted Garlic—Pesto Pot Bread

  After mashing the garlic and the Parmesan into a paste, mix in 3 tablespoons homemade or commercial pesto until well blended. Proceed exactly as for the original bread.

  Rustic Cyprus-Style Herbed Olive Bread

  KS Quotient

  Easy: All ingredients added at once. No hand-shaping.

  Herbed olive breads often feature rosemary, and sometimes oregano or thyme, but this unusual, wonderfully savory Cypriot version goes in a deliciously different direction with chopped fresh cilantro, mint, and chives. The bread surface is crackly crisp, but the olive-studded inside is tender and almost soft, due to the ample addition of olive oil. The loaf is a large, shaggy-looking round with a slightly open texture. Wedges or chunks are pretty irresistible "plain," and sumptuous dunked in olive oil.

  You'll need a Dutch oven or similar heavy pot or deep, flat-bottomed casserole for baking this bread. See chapter Getting Started: Basic Know‐How, Ingredients, and Troubleshooting if you aren't sure what to use.

  Yield: 1 large loaf, 14 to 15 wedges or slices

  4¼ cups (21.25 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour, preferably unbleached, plus more as needed

  1¾ teaspoons table salt

  ¾ teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast

  2 cups ice water, plus more if needed

  3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

  2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves

  2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or finely chopped scallion tops

  ¼ cup good-quality olive oil, plus more for brushing dough top

  1 cup thoroughly drained, chopped (pitted) Kalamata olives

  About 3 tablespoons cornmeal for dusting baking pot

  First Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, vigorously whisk together the water, cilantro, mint, and chives. Stir the mixture into the bowl with the flour until the dough is just lightly mixed. Then add the olive oil, scraping down the bowl sides and mixing until thoroughly blended. The dough should be very stiff; if necessary, add in enough more flour to stiffen it. Gently stir in the olives until evenly distributed throughout. Brush the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

  Second Rise Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center all the way around until thoroughly loosened from the bowl; don't deflate any more than necessary. Evenly brush the inside of a 3½- to 4-quart Dutch oven or other heavy pot or large, deep, flat-bottomed ovenproof casserole with olive oil. Add the cornmeal, then tip the pot back and forth to distribute it on the sides. Invert the dough into the pot; don't worry if it's ragged-looking or lopsided. Shake the pot to center the dough. Brush the surface with olive oil. Top the pot with its lid.

  Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1½- to 2½-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 1½-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Let rise until the dough has doubled from its deflated size.

  Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 475°F.

  Baking Reduce the oven temperature to 425°F. Bake on the lower rack, covered, for 55 to 60 minutes or until crisp and lightly browned. Brush the loaf with olive oil and continue to bake, uncovered, testing until the top is well browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 207° to 208°F on an instant-read thermometer), 12 to 15 minutes longer. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to ensure that the center is done. Cool in the pot on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Run a knife around the loaf and remove it to the rack; let cool completely.

  Serving and Storing

  This loaf tastes good warm, but will cut better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store airtight in a plastic bag or foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400°F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

  Swedish Limpa Bread (Swedish Rye Bread with Caraway and Anise Seeds)

  KS Quotient

  Fairly Easy: Two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping required.

  This began as a traditional recipe e-mailed to me by a reader of a story I wrote for the Washington Post on no-knead breads. The writer, Suzy Hubbell, wondered if I could make over a family favorite, her grandmother Anna Danielson's Swedish limpa bread, to fit the knead-free method. Several other people wanted to their recipes converted, too, which eventually led me to provide suggestions on how to go about it in a bonus chapter in the book (see chapter Kneadlessly Simple Recipe Makeover Guide: How to Convert Traditional Yeast Recipes to the KS Method).

  Making over this slightly sweet bread was well worth the effort. The caraway and anise seeds in combination with molasses, brown sugar, and rye flour give it a mild yet enticing flavor that even those who don't care for rye bread usually like. I find it truly addictive, especially toasted and topped with butter.

  Yield: 2 medium loaves, 12 to 14 slices each

  3½ cups (17.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour

  2 cups (10 ounces) rye flour, plus ½ cup (2.5 ounces), plus more as needed

  2¾ teaspoons table salt

  1¼ teaspoons caraway seeds

  1¼ teaspoons anise seeds

  1¼ teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast

  2/3 cup light or dark molasses (not blackstrap)

  ¼ cup corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil

  2 cups ice water, plus more if needed

  1/3 cup good-quality instant nonfat dry milk (don't use a generic brand)

  1/3 cup packed light brown sugar

  3½ tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, divided

  First Rise In a very large bowl, thoroughly stir together the white flour, 2 cups of the rye flour, the salt, caraway seeds, anise seeds, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, whisk the molasses and the oil into the water until well blended. Vigorously stir the mixture into the bowl with the flours, scraping down the bowl sides and mixing until the dough is well blended and smooth. If too dry to mix completely, a bit at a
time, add in enough more ice water to blend the ingredients and yield a firm but not hard-to-stir dough. Brush or evenly spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

  Second Rise In a small, deep bowl, stir together the dry milk, brown sugar, and 2 tablespoons of the butter with 1½ tablespoons hot water until well blended. Gradually stir the milk mixture, then ½ cup of the rye flour, into the dough until well blended and no streaks remain; the mixture will be hard to stir, so you may prefer to work in the flour with well-oiled fingertips (or use a dough hook and heavy-duty mixer on low). If necessary, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more rye flour, as the dough should be very stiff. Cut the dough in half with well-oiled kitchen shears. Put the dough portions in two 8½ x 4½-inch well-oiled loaf pans. Lightly brush the tops with some of the remaining melted butter. Smooth and press the dough evenly into the pans, tucking it under at the ends. Brush with more butter. Cover the tops with nonstick spray—coated plastic wrap.