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  Sonoma-Style Multigrain Crunch Bread

  KS Quotient

  Fairly Easy: Fairly long ingredient list, but easily mixed. Some hand-shaping.

  This loaf was adapted (and greatly simplified) from a terrific bread recipe shared with me by Craig Ponsford, one of America's world-class bakers and founder of Artisan Bakers of Sonoma, California. Craig brought some of his beautiful multigrain loaves to a baking conference in nearby Napa, and, even though I'm not a great fan of multigrain breads, I was bowled over by the unique flavor and texture and handsome look of his version. The secret is the particular combination of nine different whole and ground grains and seeds, which adds a wonderful graininess and crunch, yet doesn't hurt the teeth and completely avoids that earnest "it's good for you, so eat it," character of some multigrain breads.

  The longish list of ingredient makes the recipe a bit time-consuming to assemble, though once everything is on hand, it comes together quickly. The reward for the effort is two generous, seed-studded boules with delightfully crisp crusts. (After cooling the loaves thoroughly, stash one loaf in the freezer for great bread with no effort whatsoever.)

  Yield: 2 large round loaves

  4½ cups (22.5 ounces) unbleached white bread flour, plus more as needed

  1½ cups (7.5 ounces) whole wheat flour

  ½ cup old-fashioned or quick-cooking (not instant) rolled oats

  3 tablespoons yellow cornmeal, polenta, or corn grits

  3 tablespoons bulgur wheat or cracked wheat, optional

  2 tablespoons wheat bran

  Scant 1 tablespoon table salt

  1¼ teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast

  3 tablespoons millet seeds

  3 tablespoons flax seeds

  3 tablespoons sesame seeds

  3 tablespoon poppy seeds

  2 2/3 cups ice water, plus more if needed

  3 tablespoons clover honey or other mild honey

  1½ tablespoons corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless oil, plus extra for coating dough tops

  2 tablespoons Cornstarch Glaze, or 2 tablespoons liquid egg substitute, for finishing the loaves

  First Rise In a very large bowl, thoroughly mix together the bread flour, whole wheat flour, oats, cornmeal, bulgur, wheat bran, salt, and yeast until blended. In a small bowl, combine the millet, flax, sesame, and poppy seeds. Reserve 4 tablespoons of the seed mixture for garnish, then stir the remainder into the flour mixture. In another bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the water, honey, and oil until well blended. Vigorously stir the mixture into the bowl with the flour, scraping down the bowl and mixing until very well blended. If the dough is dry and hard to blend, stir in enough more ice water to yield a moist, yet slightly stiff dough. (The seeds will absorb moisture, stiffening the dough further.) Cover the bowl tightly with nonstick spray—coated foil. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

  Second Rise Vigorously stir the dough for 1 minute; it should be very stiff. If not, thoroughly stir in enough more bread flour to make it hard to stir. Generously oil two 9-inch deep-dish pie plates, or similar-sized deep-sized ovenproof skillets, or Dutch ovens. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the remaining seeds in each plate. Using an oiled serrated knife or kitchen shears, cut the dough in half, then put each half in a plate. Evenly sprinkle each portion with 2 to 3 tablespoons of flour. Working in the plate, shape each portion into a ball and smooth the flour into the surface all over. Lightly dusting with flour as needed, shape each portion into a high-domed 6-inch round, smoothing and tucking the edges underneath all the way around. Generously and evenly brush each loaf with the Cornstarch Glaze (or liquid egg substitute). Immediately sprinkle the remaining seeds over the loaves. Tent them with nonstick spray—coated foil.

  Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1½- to 2½-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from its deflated size.

  Baking Preliminaries 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 450°F. Place a broiler pan on the oven floor.

  Baking Reduce the temperature to 425°F. Immediately add a cup of water to the broiler pan—be careful of splattering and steam. Bake, uncovered, on the lower rack for 30 minutes, until the loaves are browned and firm. Remove the loaves from their pie plates, and transfer them to a baking sheet. Cover the tops with foil (leave the sides uncovered) and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes, occasionally testing with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 208° to 210°F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to be sure the centers are done. Let cool on wire racks for 10 minutes. Transfer the loaves to wire racks; let cool completely.

  Serving and Storing

  The loaves slice best when cool, but the bread is good served warm, at room temperature, or toasted. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean kitchen towel; or to prevent the loaf from drying out, store airtight in plastic or foil. (Loaves can be re-crisped in a preheated 375°F oven for a few minutes, if desired.) Store at room temperature for 2 to 3 days; freeze, airtight, for up to 2 months, then thaw, unwrapped, at room temperature. When thawed, re-crisp the crust in a 375°F oven for a few minutes.

  Crusty Yeasted Cornbread with Coarse Salt

  KS Quotient

  Easy: Fuss-free ingredients, added before the first rise. Some hand-shaping required.

  This very corny, sweet-smelling 2-pound round loaf is crusty and golden on the outside, and owing to the corn grits, slightly crunchy-chewy on the inside. It is in the style of artisan loaves, but takes none of the special skill. It is great served with a pot of chili, hearty soup, or stew. It is best when very fresh, as the crunch gradually diminishes in time.

  Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 portions or slices

  1/3 cup corn grits (or substitute very coarse uncooked polenta)

  1/3 cup boiling water

  2¾ cups (13.75 ounces) unbleached white bread flour, plus more as needed

  1 cup cornmeal, preferably yellow, plus about 6 tablespoons for dusting the dough and pie plate

  2 tablespoons granulated sugar

  Scant 1¾ teaspoons table salt

  ¾ teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast

  1 2/3 cups ice water, plus more if needed

  1½ tablespoons corn oil or other flavorless vegetable oil, plus more for brushing dough top and pie plate

  ¼ to ½ teaspoon coarse salt for garnish

  First Rise In a medium bowl, stir together the corn grits and boiling water until lump-free. Let stand until cooled. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, table salt, and yeast. Whisk the ice water and oil into the corn grits mixture, then vigorously stir the mixture into the bowl with the flour, scraping down the sides and mixing until thoroughly blended. If too dry to mix together, add just enough more water to facilitate mixing, but don't over-moisten, as the dough should be fairly stiff. If necessary, add in enough more flour to stiffen it slightly. Brush the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours; vigorously stir once partway through the rise, if convenient.

  Second Rise Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center all the way around but don't deflate it completely; don't stir. Oil a 9- to 9½-inch deep-sided pie plate. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the cornmeal in the plate, then tip back and forth to spread the cornmeal on the bottom and sides. Loosen the dough from the bowl sides with a
n oiled rubber spatula and gently invert it into the plate. Sprinkle the dough with more cornmeal. Pat and press it into the dough with your fingertips. Then firmly tuck the sides of the loaf underneath all the way around to form a smooth, round, high domed loaf, about 7 inches in diameter. Using well-oiled kitchen shears or a serrated knife, cut 5 or 6 2-inch curved shallow slashes radiating from the center of the dome to create a pinwheel effect. Tent with nonstick spray—coated foil.

  Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1½- to 2½-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from its deflated size, removing the foil if the dough reaches it.

  Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 450°F. Set a broiler pan on the oven floor. Generously sprinkle the loaf top with water. Immediately sprinkle the top with the coarse salt.

  Baking Put 1 cup ice water in the broiler pan; watch out for steam. Reduce the heat to 425°F. Bake, uncovered, on the lower rack for 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is nicely browned and the loaf is firm. Transfer the loaf from the pie plate to a baking sheet. Cover the top loosely with a square of foil; the sides of the loaf should remain uncovered. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes more, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 208° to 210°F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to be sure the center is done. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Remove the loaf to the rack; let cool completely.

  Serving and Storing

  Serve the bread warm, or cooled, cut into wedges or crosswise into slices. To maintain the crisp crust, store wrapped in a clean tea towel or heavy paper bag. If desired, re-warm, uncovered, on a baking sheet in a 400°F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for 2 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month.

  Easy Buttermilk Pot Bread with Coarse Salt

  KS Quotient

  Easy: Fuss-free ingredients; two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping.

  Puffy, and crusty, and faintly tangy, this big, craggy-topped loaf is such good eating it may become a standard in your repertoire. Since the dough is baked in a lidded Dutch oven, it usually springs up a lot and is light and airy. The acid in the buttermilk also makes the crumb moist and tender. Sprinkling the top with coarse salt is a contemporary touch that I think adds to the appeal, but feel free to omit it if you prefer a more old-fashioned loaf.

  Buttermilk breads have been popular with American home bakers for decades, not only because these loaves are tasty and fuss-free, but also because in the past they used up leftover buttermilk. When families still churned their own butter, buttermilk was the butter-flecked liquid remaining after the fat separated out from the cream and formed butter.

  Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 wedges or slices

  4 cups (20 ounces) unbleached white bread flour or unbleached all-purpose white flour, plus ½ cup (2.5 ounces), plus more as needed

  2 tablespoons granulated sugar

  Scant 1¾ teaspoons table salt (increase to 2 teaspoons if coarse salt garnish is omitted)

  ¾ teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast

  Corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil for coating dough

  1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons ice water, plus more if needed

  1/3 cup dried buttermilk powder

  2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

  ¾ teaspoon coarse crystal salt for garnish, optional

  First Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together 4 cups of the flour, the sugar, salt, and yeast. Thoroughly stir the water into the bowl, scraping down the sides until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more ice water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be slightly stiff. If it is very soft, stir in enough flour to firm it slightly. Brush or spray the top with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

  Second Rise Vigorously stir the buttermilk powder and butter into the dough until evenly and thoroughly incorporated. (Or use a dough hook and heavy-duty mixer on low speed, if desired.) Then, thoroughly incorporate the remaining ½ cup flour, plus enough more to make the dough very stiff. Scrape down the bowl sides thoroughly. Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center all the way around. Evenly brush or spray the dough top with oil. Cover the bowl with nonstick spray—coated plastic wrap.

  Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1½- to 2½-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from its original size, removing the plastic if the dough nears it.

  Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 450°F. Heat a 4-quart Dutch oven or similar heavy metal pot in the oven until sizzling hot (check with a few drops of water), then remove it, using heavy mitts. Taking care not to deflate the dough (or burn yourself), loosen it from the bowl sides with an oiled rubber spatula and gently invert it into the pot. Don't worry if it's lopsided and ragged-looking; it will even out during baking. Lightly spritz or brush the dough top with water. Then evenly sprinkle over the coarse salt. Slash a large, ¼-inch-deep x in the dough top with well-oiled kitchen shears. Immediately top the pot with the lid. Shake the pot back and forth to center the dough.

  Baking Lower the heat to 425°F. Bake on the lower rack for 50 to 55 minutes or until puffed and firm on top. If the loaf is nicely browned, continue baking with the lid on; if the loaf looks pale, remove the lid. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until the top is well browned and crusty and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few crumbs on the tip (or until center registers 205° to 207°F on an instant-read thermometer). Then, bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the loaf to the rack. Cool thoroughly.

  Serving and Storing

  Cut the loaf into wedges or crosswise slices; it tastes good warm, but will cut much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store airtight in a plastic bag or wrapped in foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400°F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

  Cheddar and Chiles Bread

  KS Quotient

  Super-Easy: A minimum of fuss-free, easily mixed ingredients. No hand-shaping.

  The Hispanic influence on American culture over the past decades has been pervasive and shows up not only in the popularity of Mexican and Tex-Mex fare, but also in the widespread availability of ingredients like assorted chiles. Once found only in ethnic communities and markets, green chiles turn up in everything from soups and quiches to corn casseroles and both quick and yeast breads. (If you aren't familiar with green chiles, note that they are just slightly piquant; they are not the same as jalapeños.)

  This is a delightfuly savory bread, particularly if a top-quality white cheddar is used. The loaf is shot through with cheese and bits of green chiles, and the crust is golden brown. It is great with chili, hearty, full-bodied soups, and bean dishes; it also makes an unusual but very appealing sandwich bread.

  For a different look and milder taste, prepare the equally e
asy cheddar and pimiento variation provided at the end of the recipe.